2011年1月19日星期三

Cognac: More than just a Christmas flame

For many it evokes an image of a blue hue of flame on the Christmas pudding – or the gent with a huge balloon glass and a cigar in his study.
Paul Cassell travelled to Cognac to discover more about the conception, complexity and enduring appeal of its most famous export
There is a warm air of relaxed expectation at La Part des Anges, an annual charity auction hosted by the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC).
The sale is being held at Chais Monet, a small chateau in the town from which this most famous of brandies bears its name, against the backdrop of a rosy, pink September sky.
As you would expect, the French are superb hosts with simply heavenly food only this gastronomic nation can produce with such perfection.
The large sale room is softly lit and was once a cellar owned by Henessey, the largest distillery of Cognac.
In what look like large golden bird cages are perched the lots – a selection of rare and uniquely blended Cognacs from 24 of the houses, many of them immaculately presented in beautifully, ornate bottles and cases more akin to Chanel or Yves St Laurent.
I am in the charming company of owners and representatives from the vineyards and distilleries, collectors, food and drink journalists from across the globe and distinguished guests including the Mayor of Cognac.
I am sitting next to Isabelle Decitre, head of marketing for Henessey. I ask her what she thinks makes a good Cognac.
“Elegance and finesse,” she replies.
Words heard not for the first time throughout my short stay.

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